If you're tired of struggling along with lackluster stopping power, a dana 35 disc brake conversion is possibly the single many satisfying weekend project you can tackle for the Jeep. Let's be honest, these factory drum brake systems are a relic of a bygone era. They're large, they're a complete nightmare to service, and if you receive even a very little bit of dirt or water within them while you're from the trail, they basically turn directly into blocks of wood. Swapping them away for a contemporary disc setup doesn't just make your rig safer; it makes the entire driving encounter feel more managed.
Why bother with the exchange?
Many of us running a Dana 35 are likely driving a YJ, TJ, or maybe an outdated XJ. These axles have a bit of a status for being the particular "weak link, " but for many of us operating 31s or 33s, they do just fine so long as we all aren't bouncing off rev-limiters in the stones. However, the main one region where the Dana 35 really shows its age could be the braking system.
When you're driving down the steep descent or looking to hold your own position on the ledge, you want brake systems that grab consistently. Drum brakes tend to fade because they get hot, and they're well known for holding onto heat. With a dana 35 disc brake conversion , a person get better warmth dissipation and a much simpler mechanical design. As well as, changing brake patches is a five-minute job compared in order to the spring-and-lever Tetris game you have got to get percussion.
Picking your own path: Junkyard compared to. Brand New
You will find basically two ways additional. You can go the particular "budget-friendly" route and head to the local pick-and-pull, or even you can purchase a complete bolt-on kit from a good aftermarket company.
The Junkyard Route (The ZJ Swap)
In case you like hunting for parts and saving money, the particular Grand Cherokee (ZJ) swap is the gold standard with regard to a dana 35 disc brake conversion . The 1994–1998 Great Cherokees often came with Dana 35 rear axles that already had disc brake systems. Because the casing is so similar, the particular backing plates, calipers, and rotors from a ZJ can be adapted for your Wrangler or Cherokee axle.
It's not quite a "drop-in" affair due to the fact of the axle flange offsets and the way the C-clips work, but it's very close. You'll usually need in order to slightly enlarge the particular center hole on the ZJ backing plates to suit over your axle tubes, but it's nothing a mill or perhaps a steady hands using a file can't handle.
The Aftermarket Kit Path
If you don't possess the time to scrub rust off 30-year-old components, companies like TeraFlex or Crown Auto offer complete kits. These are excellent simply because they come along with everything—new rotors, disc brake calipers, pads, as well as the internal parking brake components. You pay more upfront, but a person save an enormous amount of time, so you know every thing is going to fit the first time.
What you're going to need
Regardless associated with which path a person choose, record of parts is pretty much the same. You aren't just slapping a rotor upon and calling it each day. You'll want: * Backing plates: These keep the calipers and the emergency brake shoes. * Rotors plus Calipers: Obviously. * Brake Patches: Go for a decent ceramic or even semi-metallic pad. * Brand new Brake Lines: The smooth lines that go from the axle towards the caliper are usually different for discs than they may be with regard to drums. * Emergency Brake Cables: This is generally the part that will trips people up. Your stock carol cables almost never work with the brand new disc setup.
Getting your hands dirty: The process
Alright, let's talk about the specific work. First items first, you've have got to get those aged drums off. This is the part where you'll probably use a lot of PB Blaster and maybe a hammer. After the drums are away from, you have in order to pull the axle shafts.
Since the Dana 35 is the C-clip axle (in most cases), you'll need to pop the diff cover, pull the cross-pin, plus push the shafts inward to launch those little C-clips. It sounds daunting if you've never opened a differential box before, but it's actually pretty straightforward. Just don't lose individuals clips .
Once the shafts are out, you can unbolt the particular old drum backing plates. Clean the axle flanges really well here. If you're doing the ZJ swap, this is usually where you'd test-fit your backing dishes and do any kind of necessary trimming. When you're using the kit, they should bolt right up.
After the backing plates are on, slide your axle shafts back in, re-order the C-clips, and put the difference cover back on. Now you can slide the new rotors over the wheel studs. From there, it's just the matter of bolting on the calipers and connecting your lines.
Dealing with the Emergency Brake
The e-brake is definitely the "final boss" of the dana 35 disc brake conversion . Most disc setups use the "drum-in-hat" style parking brake. This means there are small little brake shoes hidden inside the particular center of the particular rotor.
Connecting your present handle to brand-new shoes usually requires specific cables. If you did the ZJ swap, you may be able to make use of cables from a different year of Jeep, or you might need to use some cable clamps to help make the lengths function. In case you bought the kit, hopefully, this came with the best ones. Pro tip: Don't neglect the e-brake. It's a pain to set up, yet you'll miss this the first time you attempt to dog park on a slope.
The Proportioning Valve: To swap or not?
It is a big debate within the Jeep neighborhood. Brake drums require even more pressure to function than disc brake systems. Because of this particular, your factory proportioning valve is fine-tined to send a particular amount of "juice" to the back. Once you switch in order to discs, you will probably find that the rear brake systems are a bit too sensitive, or even they might not be getting quite enough flow.
Several guys recommend changing in a ZJ proportioning valve or an adjustable Wilwood valve. Others discover that the stock valve works just fine following a good bleed. My advice? Complete the dana 35 disc brake conversion , take it for a slow try out within a safe region, and see exactly how it feels. If the rear end locks up way prior to the front, you'll have to address the valve.
The end result
As soon as you get every thing bled and buttoned up, the distinction is night plus day. The pedal feel is generally firmer, and the "clunkiness" of the rear end under weighty braking disappears. Servicing becomes a wind, and you won't have to worry regarding cleaning out mud each time you strike a puddle.
Is it worth the effort? Completely. Whether you're developing a dedicated trail rig or just keeping a classic 4x4 on the street, a dana 35 disc brake conversion is one associated with those rare enhancements where the cost-to-benefit ratio is intensely to your advantage. It's the great way in order to find out more about your axle, and it also gives you that extra little bit of confidence every time you hit the particular brake pedal. Simply take your time, maintain track of your C-clips, and appreciate the peace of mind that comes with modern ending power.